Leo Leydon

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What a guy! So sweet and generous with his time, I think, I know, I will miss him most of all.
He picked me up this morning, for the last time, to take me back to Dublin. He was certainly not done sharing his vast knowledge of all things Ireland with me. We saw more passage tombs on top of the mountains as  we headed east. Left a part of the rim of Ireland to the vast bowl like midlands.  On the way we stopped at sculptures along the way. The most poignant stop was a true step back in time.

A Franciscan Abbey that was founded in 1270. It the only church in the midlands that still functions as a Catholic church for more than 700 years.

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There are four windows in the chapel that depict the story of the Children of Lir. Leo told me this story a few days ago, and I feel fortunate to have seen the friars built near the lake where the story is based. The story is about the four children who were changed into swans by their cruel stepmother, jealous of their father’s love for his children. The only way to break the spell was for the swans to hear a bell. According to the legend, the four swans  spent 900 years on three waters; near the friary, waters between Ireland and Scotland and waters off Mayo in the Atlantic ocean. Here the children were rescued after hearing the bells calling all to mass.

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So, funny note, just outside the abbey, I found these….barrels (kegs?) of Holy water!

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Now we end up in dublin, with Leo going over the easy way back to the western part of Ireland. He decided to stay in Dublin to go to the natural history museum and roam about. Again, not part of the tour, but fascinating listening to my private tour guide, making sense of all there was to see.

We parted after having another lovely meal.

Things I learned about Leo:
1. Great eater! There is no doubt if he enjoys a meal.
2. Lost in Ireland was not a bad description of my blog. At random times on our rides, he would say, ‘I don’t have any idea where the feck we are’.
3. All roads lead somewhere, and who cares if you are lost, it’s a lovely view.
4. Rhubarb pie is lovely.
5. He is a very kind, intelligent, interesting, understanding and nothing is a bother, man.
6. He can talk up a stranger that they forget they were going somewhere.
7. He can talk!

Safe traveling Leo, thanks for the lovely rides.
See you soon!

Ploughing in Ireland

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A real Irish farmer, tilling the soil the pre – famine way. It actually looked and was just as good as the tractors, just slower and on a much smaller scale.
He was so kind to take me aside and actually show me the how’s and whys you would do this. I was asked ‘what kind of accent is that?’ I may look irish, but, the states comes through!

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No horses at this one, but donkeys, just look at the man facing me. There truly is an art to ploughing. Also, very messy shoes, and jeans from all the muck!

From the plowing we went to the Ulster American folk park. There was a genealogy library there that Leo wanted me to look into. The women that work there were very helpful with good ideas for tracing family roots.  We were late getting to the park, but we did manage to go from rural Ireland to the American brick house, brought over from the USA (Pennsylvania) and put back together. It actually had a white picket fence! Not something
you see much of in Ireland.

Back to the hotel after a long ride, I feel like Leo must be thinking, if this was a movie it would be Driving Ms Aine (Anne)!  Back to Dublin tomorrow morning. I will be sad to leave, but happy to know I get to see Kate on Monday and head back on Tuesday.  I will be driving miss Kate, look out Ireland!

Room without a ewe…….

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So this is my view…..a roof and wall. If you look closely you can see that it is raining again!

After breakfast we are going to a local yearly event, The Annual Sligo Ploughing Competition! It’s the ‘real Ireland’. Old Time farmers, daughters and youth compete for ploughing excellence. ….more to follow!

Seaweed baths……who knew?

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I’m sure Leo was not tired of me, but he suggested a spa and I thought, well I’m on vacation…..The name of the spa was Voya, specializing in seaweed baths. I’m adventurous, so with a creepy feeling I make an appointment. People are going in and out like crazy. It must be FABULOUS. Leo did tell me what to expect, because apparently men do this too.

I go. A sweet Irish lass asked if I ever had a seaweed bath before and then went into what to do. In the room is a private steam, with shower, which you need to do.steam for 5 minutes and then step into the tub. Picture a tidal pool covered with seaweed…..nice, huh? I step in, sit down and try to relax. Leo told me to squeeze the puffs on the seaweed, the gel is the best moisturizer. I found myself squeezing them like they were bubble wrap, just to get my mind off the fact I was in a tub, with weeds, with a sign that says….Enjoy your bath, rest assured it is sanitized after each bath……God I hope so!

So, my skin feels lovely! Worth the creepy feeling, ummmmm. ..I think I may buy my weed on the street!!!!

I moved from the B & B today(sadly), to what the tour guy from Virginia said was : “a wonderful hotel in the town of Bundoran”. Well, my guess is he has never stayed here. Fortunately, Leo stayed to help me with my bags. At the check in, she asked if I would be paying now or when I leave. Leo tells her about the tour and she’s says, yes there is a note t b at he would call back, but he never did. Yep, that’s the guy. Same as he was prior to the trip. I would never use this tour guy again, but other than this hotel, he has wonderful connections here that believe in what they do and just love ireland.

It’s a smoking floor, with a large ashtray in the room, lovely! To get to the room, was like a maze, going up and down at least four steps at a time. Around many corners, until I get to my rroo, which is down four more steps. Poor Leo,  my bag has gotten heavier since getting here! The bathroom in my tiny room is UP four steps!

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I am not lying! Kudos to Leo during my tiny breakdown!  Tomorrow I will be moved to a non smoking room……we’ll see. Oh, and tomorrow when the sun is out, I will take a pic of the view…..not magical!

Remnants of a life……

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As Leo and I drive along country roads I am struck by the ruins I see. Some are removed to make way for  new generations to come. Some are left to remind all of a previous life.  When I look at them I see a candle in a window signaling warmth and family….a home. It may not have stood the test of time, but who or what does? Now, they are considered ‘ruins’ or derelict or worse, famine homes. Left by a family who’s choices were small. Stay and starve or leave and go to the unknown in hopes of a life. Not a new life or a better life, just life.

Instead of a roof there are trees, giving shelter to birds and small animals. Instead of windows, you can look inside to it’s soul. There are flowers, daffodils right now, offering promise of new life.  There is beauty in ruins. Previous generations made us possible, they lived in a time, we can only imagine. They live on in all of us. We can mourn them, but we must live on. Be the trees, soul and flowers of the future.

It was a day like no other. …..

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The morning misty fog, reminiscent of a time long ago…… actually 2 days ago, is how this day began!! So we headed north where the elusive sun had been spotted! Leo, my guide, also known now as Leo ‘Finn McCool’ Leydon, the man who has all the knowledge, drove me to our next destination.

First stop, Derry. I ask, ‘what’s the difference between Derry and Londonderry?’. Leo, aka Finn says ‘nothing’. There you go, nothing! Seriously, he knows so much about all dates, times, wars, battles, kings, pawns, berserks. The guide we had actually looked to Leo when she quoted dates, stories and questions posed by others on the tour. I found the difference between Derry and Londonderry was if you were from the south of Ireland,  it was Derry.  Northern Ireland,  Londonderry. It’s on the border and each side thinks their name is the right name.

Off to the Giant’s Causeway. A long drive, also, not typically on this tour, actually NEVER on this tour, but Leo took me. Such a lovely guide! Another scenic drive along the coast to the Causeway. It is the remnants of a volcanic eruption that formed these huge columns as they cooled. Crashing waves, and stepping stones create a unique photographic opportunity.

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See….that’s Leo!

Then the drive back to the B & B, stopped for dinner and a chat with the lovely girls at the local pub. Just like old friends!

By the way,  berserks as I mentioned earlier, is an Irish word, used to describe the drugged up (pawns, as in chess pawns) that we’re sent into battle first, so crazy on drugs they couldn’t wait to kick the shite out of the enemy, the bloodier the better, it didn’t matter if it was their own!
So lesson…..don’t do drugs!

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Can I please keep her?….

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Ugh, where are the sweaters…….

I find myself hoping rainy days always turn out like this!

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Come on in and have a cuppa tea….

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You must be tired of me by now? I hope not because I’m going to go on again about my day!

Leo picked me up at 10:00 and we headed off to an old cemetery, there are quite a few, each one significant in it’s own way. Amongst stones so old and covered with moss, unable to read about the remains, were relatively new stones and one that was likely there 400-500 years AD. Pagan mostly likely before Christians took over Ireland. People still leave coins to honor the spirit. No one in there right mind would remove a coin for fear of what the faeries in the nearby tree would do to you. Yes, there really are faeries in Ireland and could be the explanation for karma!

We spent a little time in Donegal (pronounced donny gaul) for lunch and some shopping. Then we went to Ulster. Now, I know there are  many facts I’m leaving out, but need to get to the ‘cuppa tea’.

On the way we stopped in to visit Leo’s daughter Sarah, her two boys (Aiden and Dylan). She is a lovely woman who is very busy, but kind enough to meet this complete stranger. It was a short stay with kisses for the grandfather, one regular and one messy (one year old kisses can be sloppy!).

Now off to what I can only describe as Irelands version of the Pacific Coast highway. There were such magnificent views of the Atlantic, I hope to take Kate there when she arrives. Off of this narrow road was an even narrower one.  This is where we met Kathleen Meehan, in Kilcare County, Donegal. We drive down a narrow road that if you were not paying attention you would drive right into the ocean. Outside this little home with two dogs out front was a small sign : Handmade Irish Knitwear.

Kathleen comes out to greet us along with the pups. “Come on in and sit awhile and have a cuppa tea.” I would have to say, this was my magical moment today, but it gets better 😉  Inside is her husband who is sweet as can be. If I were to describe him, he looks like a seafaring man. White hair, white beard, hard worker(kinda like santa, but real!). Outside the kitchen window aren’t there SHEEP! Kathleen tells me about all the lambing, and how exhausted she is. I told her that I would gladly stay and help her! Just then, doesn’t her husband bring in a lamb for me to hold….magical.  A two week old female lamb, sweet as could be. I did not want a sweater, I wanted to take the lamb. Needless to say, I have a new sweater….baaaaaaa

After hugs from new found friends, off to Sligo we go along the rest of a, how do you Americans say….AWESOME, drive! Waves crashing into mountains, sandy beaches and…….sheep.

Goodnight everyone, instead of counting sheep tonight, I will be counting my blessings.

 

 

The lambs and sheep dot the hillside like raindrops on the windshield….

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Each day I think,  cannot possibly be more lovely.  I won’t bore you with pictures yet, that day will come!

Today was my first full day with Leo Leydon. He survived! Was it life changing for him, I can only imagine, it was for me, as is every day here.

We started with the Carrowmore Megalithic Cemetary and passage tombs. A short walk around a sacred area with structures so 5-6 thousand years old. Then the Blarney began. Would you like to hike up this hill, just about a half a kilometer?  Sure, I say, I’m game to try anything. So, we start our trek.  Not too bad, but I’m looking up, how could this be just a half a kilometer? So we walk and chat as the hill gradually inclines, and then inclines more.  We stop and I catch my breath. (This would be the first of MANY breath catching stops.) All the while he would say, just a few more stops (not steps) and we’ll be there. You will not believe the view. Up we go. (Now, imagine all he is saying, with the Irish accent, now you understand, just a few more stops is believable!) So, we get to the top, the view is good, I see up close the passage tomb. Now he says, let’s climb to the top of the tomb, the views are amazing of the sea and lakes and mountains. In my head, I am saying ‘FOR FECK SAKE! But, those words don’t come out, I say ‘but the sign says ‘no climbing on the tomb’. He says ‘everyone does it, you’ll be glad you did’. So up we go, even steeper.

I MADE IT, I have the pictures to prove it. It was the magical part of this day, now he says ‘I know you were thinking, for feck sake’. HA HA HA,  he had me!!

That hike took the better part of the day, we then traveled country roads that all I could think of was ‘dad would have loved this ride’. We saw ruins of homes, abbeys, crazy colored houses, sheep, horses, dogs running along side the car, sheep, donkeys, lambs and more lambs, lakes, crazy road signs, mountains, oh, and did I mention sheep?

One other stop today was to a woodcarver. The most unassuming shop. Pieces of wood, sawdust on the floor. The smell of fresh cut wood and carvings of mythical figures and some not quite mythical.  He gave me his ‘card’ a handwritten paper that says this:

Michael Quirke      The Woodcarver and Wordweaver

He was both, and did both very well. He told me stories and carved a piece of wood while he talked. It was a simple carving of Bailey.  With my Irish name on the back ‘Aine’. Another lovely gentleman, definitely a wordweaver.

Our last stop was at Glencar Waterfall. This time the walk was very easy. Peaceful, listening to the water rush by, watching it as it cascaded to the stream below. There is something so serene in that.

Back to the B & B to rest up a wee bit before dinner.

 

A rainy day in Ireland. ….

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Is just as amazing as a sunny day.

My guide today I met near W.B. Yeats grave. Joe McGowan, what a lovely gentleman. He spent quite a few hours with me showing me around Sligo and the surrounding area. Starting with the grave and church.  I was never a huge fan of poetry, but hearing Joe read it, let’s just say,  I will be getting at least one book. Drumcliffe, a must experience when in Ireland. ” A collection of words in a place where past and future dance together, while silently outside the present waits.”

Benbulben Mountain and it’s spectacular views. Every direction you look at it and every angle the sun hits it, makes you feel as though you are seeing it again, for the first time.  The stories and folklore Joe shared with me were fascinating. He could make a bare field come to life with the stories of historic events that happened near a few rocks. What a people would do to survive during seemingly un-survivable times, it is inspiring.

He shared a walk with me on land he owns. Over barbed wire and wet rocks we climbed for a view of the Atlantic. Passing sheep and lambs (trudging through, what will eventually be great fertilizer, shite). He told me about the warning light that use to me there to signal messages from one county to another, this was long before other ways of communication.  When we got to the end of the land and took in the amazing view of the Atlantic, there were dolphins swimming a bout. Magical. All of this and rain too!

One of the last places for the day, Mass Rock. Thanks to many brave people this still exists and even exists at all. A wonderful place for solitude and reflection under a canopy of lovely old trees.

Lastly, a memorial to an amazing Irish woman, Constance Marievicz. I have a book written by Joe, if you ask, I will let you borrow it, but you will give it back! (Battle of the Books).

 

 

 

 

 

A Room With a Ewe

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20140407-103550.jpgAs many of you know, I have acquired a affection for sheep. Low and behold the B & B has sheep just outside my bedroom window! Best of all, the lambing has begun, 6 so far!

 

There is also a magnificent mountain beyond the sheep, too bad it didn’t make the picture!  It will soon!